understanding Equipment and features

Automatic leveling system. Not a must but very convenient, and almost all newer rigs come with this as a standard feature. One push of the button and the coach automatically levels itself with the 6-point leveling system. Doing it manually requires blocks for the tires and small set of front/rear and side/side levels.

Independent suspension. Almost all fifth wheels are made with standard leaf spring suspension and axles, and usually with the minimum strength necessary to meet the weight ratings for the trailer.

Independent suspension replaces the standard axles and springs with an independent design that allows each wheel to respond individually to the road. This provides a smoother ride and more durable suspension system.

Disc Brakes. All fifth wheel trailers have their own brake system activated through the electrical connection from the truck to assist in stopping ability. Most trailers come standard with electric drum brakes, and while they are adequate, they are not the best. Upgrading to disc brakes will improve stopping ability and provide more confidence when towing.

Generator. Most all new rigs will come with a “Gen-Prep Package”, meaning they are wired and ready for a generator to be installed. Unless you know you’ll do a lot of boondocking, my recommendation is to wait on purchasing a generator. See if your lifestyle is dependent on sacrificing storage, cost and weight in favor of a generator before you purchase one. Generators can be very useful in the event of a power outages but are a must if boondocking or assisting in disaster relief where you don’t expect to have power available.

Solar panels. A popular option for boondockers, solar panels typically charge several deep-cell batteries through the day and provide electricity through the inverter. A solar installation is not overly complicated, but you do have to have an understanding of RV electrical systems as well as installation procedures that prevent roof leaks.

Air conditioning and heating. Your level of enjoyment in living in an RV will be directly related to the performance of your heating and cooling systems. RVs don’t have thick walls and insulation and don’t provide the same comfort of a typical home.

Newer RVs usually come with two roof-mounted air conditioners and a third as an option. More is better, and those rigs come with a power management system to prevent electrical overload. Air conditioners are only designed to provide cooling to about 20 degrees lower than the outside air temperature, so parking in shade, awnings, window tinting or insulation and supplementing the airflow with fans may still be necessary and will make a big difference.

Heaters are typically electric and propane. Most air conditioning units now have electric heat-pumps that provide comfortable electrical heating down to about 40 degrees outside temperature. Below that, the propane heater will work to keep your rig warm and functions similar to central heat in a home. The propane heater also provides underbelly heat to keep internal water lines from freezing.

The fireplace that is common in upper-end RVs is not just for ambiance. It is a great source of electrical heat.

Satellite dish. If you plan on using satellite TV on the road, the investment of an automated roof-top dish can be worthwhile. It is much easier and less time consuming to setup with the simple push of a button instead of manually hunting down a satellite signal. Portable dish systems work really well for heavily wooded campgrounds where you can move your dish around until you get a good signal and are less expensive.

Induction or gas (propane) stove top. Induction stove tops have become very popular in RVs, and overall in the kitchen industry. Induction is advertised as a faster and more efficient method of heating by using electromagnetic energy to heat the cooking pan.

You need to be aware that induction cook tops in an RV are restricted by power limitations. Power settings are designated 1 through 10, and on a two-burner cook top, the maximum power available is any combination of 10. So you can use one burner at 10, or two burners at 7 and 3 or 5 and 5, for example, but you can’t use two burners at 10.

Many RV owners are very happy and have become experts with their induction cook tops, but this has been a source of frustration for us. We would much rather have a gas stove top.

Propane or gas stove tops usually have two or three burners and are very similar to a residential gas stove.

Convection microwave or conventional oven. Another popular feature in newer RVs is a convection microwave oven rather than a conventional gas oven, primarily to save space. Most ovens installed are also convection. We have found the convection oven (ours is also a microwave) to be more frustrating than useful. Food does not seem to cook evenly, the temperature fluctuates greatly, and food rarely cooks in the time prescribed. Our microwave is also not large enough for a Thanksgiving turkey, so it requires some adjustment to our traditions.

This may be a brand issue with convection ovens/microwaves. We’ve talked to a lot of people on the road who have replaced their oven or microwave/oven with a new equipment and it seems to make a big difference.

Again, I think we would be happier with a conventional gas oven paired with a regular microwave oven.

Refrigerator. Many higher-end fifth wheels are now installing residential refrigerators as standard equipment. RVs use to only be equipped with an RV refrigerator - one that would run on propane or electric. While these refrigerators have provided years of reliable service, they have to be level to work properly, tend to not get as cold as a conventional refrigerator and in recent years have been the cause of many RV fires.

Rigs equipped with residential refrigerators have an inverter that allow the refrigerator to run off battery power when you’re not plugged in to campground power. An inverter takes 12 volts DC from the battery and inverts it to 120 volts AC so the refrigerator can run about 36 hours before draining the batteries. If you plan on being unhooked longer than this you’ll need a generator and/or solar panels.

We are strong proponents of the residential refrigerator since we don’t do much boondocking. They provide more room, stay colder, provide conveniences like water and ice in the door, and don’t have some of the reliability issues that plague RV refrigerators. Our residential refrigerator and inverter have been problem-free since 2016.

Washer/dryer. You’ll need to decide if you want the convenience of an on-board washer and dryer or plan to use laundromats. Some units are designed for full-size washer and separate dryer, some for stackable units, and some only for a single combination washer/dryer. Automatically they add weight and affect your cargo carrying capacity.

Purchase a “vented” dryer rather than nonvented. Nonvented dryers dispel their heat, lint and moisture inside the rig and only have an advantage by not having to cut a hole in the side of your RV. You’ll be much more satisfied if you do it right and install a vent.

RV dryers only run on 120 volts so they don’t generate quite the heat of a home dryer. It will take longer to dry.

A combination washer/dryer is great for space, but laundry takes twice as long with only one appliance.

Electronic command center. It’s not uncommon for newer fifth wheels to have electronic command centers branded as “InCommand” or “OneControl”. These systems provide one-touch access to your RV lights, awnings, generator, internal water pump, propane heat, leveling system and more, rather than conventional toggle switches. While some might question the reliability of these systems, others have found the system very convenient with all the controls accessible through an app on your phone or iPad.

Next: Size and Floor Plans

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