Vehicle and RV Maintenance

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Vehicle and RV Maintenance (Quicklinks)

Keeping it Clean

Vehicle Maintenance

RV Maintenance

Tires

Suspension

Wheel Bearings

Brakes

Caulking and Sealant

Roof

Slides and Landing Gear

Probably the most basic form of maintenance is keeping your truck and trailer clean.

After using a multitude of products, I settled on a polish and wax manufactured by Production Car Care Products. The polish is called Production Anti-Static Showroom Conditioner and is a one-step application without dust or residue that cleans, polishes, and keeps the surface dust-free. I usually purchase it directly from the company.

Using Production Polish.

If you purchase the gallon bottle, use a spray bottle for application.

Rinse the vehicle to remove surface dirt. Wash with soap if necessary.

Dry the vehicle with a towel.

Spray the Production polish lightly on a 2 ft. x 2 ft. area of the vehicle. Wipe the entire area using a micro-fiber towel. It takes very little product to polish an area. Then move on to the next area.

Production works great for removing bug juice off the grill or off the front cap of the 5th wheel.

I’ve found that once applied, it is rarely necessary to wash with soap, and only on occasion with water. If the dirt is significant, usually hosing down with water and wiping with a towel is sufficient.

Production also produces a carnuba wax that works well for providing a good wax coat and can remove light scuff marks. It’s a two-step application - spray on and wipe, let it dry about 15 minutes, then wipe off. There is no dust or residue. Again, it takes very little product so it will last a long time. I use it for a complete wax coating about twice a year, and periodically to remove scuff marks from branches on the RV. It also is great at removing the black scuff marks from the seals on the slides.

Truck Maintenance. Don’t ever take for granted the safety and reliability of your tow vehicle. While it’s possible to get years of trouble-free service from a vehicle that has been neglected, your odds are much better with a consistent maintenance program.

One of the best things I’ve used with my 2016 F-350 was a running spreadsheet of maintenance. On Google Sheets it is easy to access and keep up to date and it gives me a historical record of the vehicle. The best thing though is it keeps me on track with maintenance.

Here are my simple recommendations. Obviously, follow your manufacturer’s recommendations if more frequent than these:

Oil and Filter Change - Every 5,000 miles

Fuel Filter(s) Change - Every 15,000 miles

Air Filter Change - Every 20,000 miles (sooner if in a dusty environment)

Radiator Flush - 100,000 miles

Transmission Fluid Flush - 100,000 miles

Using these intervals makes it easy to stay on top of maintenance at a glance of the odometer. I can pre-plan future maintenance items, and I can check my records when a mechanic recommends something that really might not need changing - like an air filter that I may have just replaced.

Tires. Keep tires inflated at the manufacturer’s recommended pressures which are found on a decal on the driver’s side door jamb.

It’s a good idea to rotate tires every 10,000 miles. If you have a dually, the manufacturer probably recommends swapping sides instead of front to back.

Keep a good eye on tire condition and pressures. It is much easier to deal with an issue before it becomes a problem on the side of the road.

The single most important factor in safety and reliability are the tires on your trailer.

Factory tires, with little exception, are rarely quality tires. There are many horror stories of two- or three-year-old factory tire failures, usually resulting in damage to the siding of the rig. Just browse some forums using a search engine and you’ll see terms like “Chinabombs” (Goodyear Marathon), “Blow-max” (Tow-Max) and other not-so-kind terms.

First, choose a quality tire. The weight rating is most important, and is based on the actual weight of your trailer. 6,000 lb. axles usually are equipped with Load Range E tires; 7,000 lb. axles typically have G-rated tires, and 8,000 lb. axles usually have H-rated tires. Many owners will upgrade E-rated tires to G, and G-rated tires to H, and that upgrade may also include new rims.

An upgrade from E to G tires will require metal valve stems and 110 psi rims. G to H requires 17.5” rims, metal valve stems, and 125 psi rims.

Currently the two Load Range G or H tires of choice are Sailun S637 or Goodyear G614 or G114s. Both of these are quality tires that should provide great service for many years and miles. For lighter trailers, the Goodyear Endurance is fairly new but seems to be providing good service for the Load Range D and E tire. So far (2021) the Hercules H tire has had very few problems.

Aluminum wheels are also rated for load. The wheels are usually stamped on the reverse side with the maximum psi rating, with 80 psi max for an E-rated tire, 110 psi max for a G-rated tire, and 125 psi for H-rated tires.

If wheels are stressed or overloaded, they can develop tiny cracks which can be mistaken for blemishes in the finish. The little hairline spider web markings are not just finish blemishes; they are tiny hairline cracks. This particular 110-psi wheel was leaking through one of these cracks.

The suspension on a 5th wheel trailer may be the most problem-prone area. Two factors create this: the trailer is built to the minimum standards to meet weight certification; and the roads we travel can be very, very rough.

Familiarization with terms is helpful.

Springs - the multi-layered leafs that attach the axle to the trailer.

Shackles - the pivot point between the springs and the trailer frame.

Spring hangers - the metal braces that are welded to the trailer frame where the shackles attach.

Equalizer - the center pivot point between the axles.

Wet bolts - the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle and the shackle to the hanger. The “wet” part of the bolt means it has a grease fitting that permits the bolt/shackle to be lubricated.

Problems associated with springs. Springs and axles come in weight ratings of 6,000, 7,000, and 8,000 lbs, and generally the manufacturers do not install springs with a lot of excess capacity. For weekend recreational users, the factory springs may be fine. For fulltimers that are generally carrying more weight, an upgrade is usually in order. Springs that are overloaded will flatten out and lose their carrying capacity.

There are rebound clips on the ends of the spring pack that keep the leaves aligned. If the clip breaks or otherwise disappears, the leaves have a chance of misalignment, causing the weight of the RV to rest on fewer leaves, as pictured in the top photo.

The ends, or “eyes”, usually come with plastic bushings that can wear out prematurely. Bronze bushing replacements are more durable and will last longer.

The wet bolts, if stressed, may have a tendency to break. The break usually occurs at the grease hole perpendicular to the center line hole. Some owners believe wet bolts are weaker than a solid bolt and that the ability to grease the suspension does not outweigh the advantage of a solid Grade-8 bolt.

Wheel bearings should be greased at least once per year or every 3,000 miles, and it doesn’t take much. On axles that have an EZ-Lube fitting, the center of the hub cap is usually rubber and can be removed for access to the grease cap and fitting. If not, it requires removal of the wheel and hubcap to access the dust plug covering the grease fitting. The most common point of failure is the seal keeping grease out of the brake assembly, caused by over-greasing. One or two squirts of grease should keep the seals in tact and prevent grease from seeping into the brake assembly.

Brakes should be checked at the same time the wheel bearings are maintained. Check for adequate linings on the pads or brake shoes, make sure the seals are good and there is no grease on the brakes, and make sure they are in proper adjustment.

Water will cause more structural damage to an RV than anything else over time, and is usually caused by cracked or weathered seals.

Small cracks in caulk bead can cause major damage. For example, this small cracking in the bead led to a rotted slide floor. Water enters through the crack and has no place to go other than the floor of the slide. Over time, the entire floor can rot out.

There are a multitude of products on the market, but the factory techs use Geocel 2300 MHRV Sealant when they reseal the mouldings. It is available through Amazon and it’s expensive.

Here is the best process I’ve seen for repairing and resealing caulk bead:

• Clean the joint to be caulked with 3M Citrus Adhesive Remover using a CRL216 Windshield Tool (both products also used and recommended by factory technicians)

• Caulk the joint with the MHRV-2300

• Use a spray bottle filled with mixture of water and dish soap and lightly spray over recently caulked area. Smooth with your finger. The end result is a great looking bead.

The roof is generally maintenance free, but cannot be taken for granted. Follow the recommendations of the manufacturer for the type of material used on the roof. I usually believe the less human activity on the roof the better it will hold up. There are seals however that need to be checked - primarily the main joint between the front and rear cap, but also check the seal for everything attached to or through the roof.

A recent discussion with an insurance adjuster confirmed that the number one location for leaks in a 5th wheel trailer is the front and rear cap seal at the roof.

If the roof is damaged in some way, Eternabond tape is an excellent product to use for repair. Once it is put down, it does not come off and will seal any hole or tear.

Slides and landing gear should be lubricated according to the manufacturer recommendations. Since slides operate using different mechanisms, consult the manufacturer for their advice on maintaining good slide operation.

Landing gear usually doesn’t require maintenance, but occasional lubrication with a lubricant such as CRC Power Lube with PTFE can provide smooth operation and reduce the popping that will sometimes occur.

Don’t use regular WD-40 for lubrication - it will attract dirt and grime.

Spray the landing gear legs when extended and cycle the gear a few times. This can moisten the seals and stop small leaks that can occur.

Next: Fresh Water

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