Your Truck

The Key to the Highway

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Which Brand?

Gas or Diesel

DEF and Diesel Emissions

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Towing Guides

Leveling the Truck

Your Hitch

Next: Weight

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Probably the most controversial issue in the RV community is the truck you choose to pull with. They’re called “Truck Wars”, and a lot is said in jest with friendly jokes thrown back and forth making fun of your allegiance to a certain brand. If you’re full-timing, you’re going to be spending a lot of time in your truck, so it’s important to make sure it will do the job you’re asking it to do and has the creature comforts you want.

Your hitch, which is how the “fifth wheel” term came to being, is the single link between your truck and trailer. It has to be rated for the size of your fifth wheel. Beyond that, a lot of manufacturers have spent a lot of effort trying to build a better mousetrap.

There was a time when all three truck manufacturers had their problems. Ford had diesel engine problems with the 6.0 and 6.4 International engines which nearly put them out of the diesel business. GM had problems with injectors, fuel pumps, fuel starvation and transmissions. Dodge/Ram had problems with fuel injectors and pumps, water pumps, exhaust manifolds, transmissions, electrical and interior interior issues.

The truck manufacturers are in business to make money, and they don’t profit by selling a substandard product. All three current-generation trucks are very capable, and while it’s possible to get a truck with problems, the chances are that you’ll have a very reliable vehicle that will serve you well.

You have to choose the truck that has the ratings for what you’ll be towing. Primarily, the two numbers to start with are the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight and the Towing Capacity. All three manufacturers continue to try to best each other with tow and horsepower ratings, but a lot of that is marketing.

It pays to do the research, take them for a test drive, and follow the discussion on various owner forums. You’ll find the good and the bad, but you’ll go in with more knowledge than when you started. The older the model year, the more complaints you find and it’s not unusual for any one of the three manufacturers to have a problem year. Here’s one of the many websites available for owners to lodge complaints, and I don’t know if this is any more reputable than any other one, but in the end, you get to make the choice and in all likelihood you’ll be very pleased.

Short answer - diesel. If you’re towing a big rig suitable for full-timing, you need the diesel. Even if you’ve never owned a diesel before, you’ll need the torque and horsepower that a diesel engine provides. I’m not even going to bother comparing the gas or diesel engine here. Yes, gas is more familiar and probably less expensive to maintain. It won’t have the longevity, horsepower or torque that a diesel has.

Here’s the branding used by the manufacturers for their diesel engines:

GM - Duramax 6.6 diesel (used since 2004)

Ford - Powerstroke 6.7 diesel (used since 2011)

Ram - Cummins 6.7 diesel (used since 2009)

If you’ve never owned a diesel, I suggest you pay attention every single time you fill up to make sure you’re at the diesel pump. Fueling is such a mindless process that it is easy to be distracted and fall into habits, and if your habit has been filling up with gasoline for the last 40 or 50 years, it can happen. Before you realize it, you’ve pumped half a tank of gasoline in your diesel. My guess is that a great percentage of diesel trucks that get towed to a shop are the result of gasoline in the diesel tank. Gasoline can cause significant damage to the fuel system and engine.

First, some simple acronyms and definitions:

DEF - Diesel Exhaust Fluid

DPF - Diesel Particulate Filter

Regen - Regeneration, or the process of cleaning the exhaust filter

SCR - Selective Catalytic Reduction

SCR. In 2011, the EPA required that modern diesel engines reduce the amount of soot and emissions. The process used to meet the standards is called Selective Catalytic Reduction, or SCR.

SCR injects Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) into a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) where exhaust soot is collected. Using an extremely hot environment, the DEF creates a chemical reaction that produces Nitrogen, water, and a small amount of CO2, harmless chemicals that are found in the air we breath.

Because of SCR, modern diesels don’t have the black smoke or diesel smell like they used to.

DEF. Diesel trucks have a separate tank for Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) traditionally marked with a blue cap, and it is readily available at truck stops, auto parts stores, most convenience stores and Walmart. It usually comes in 2 1/2 gallon jugs and generally needs refilling about every 3000 to 5000 miles.

The truck will provide warning notices when it is time to add DEF. It won’t allow you to destroy the engine or emission system, and will eventually go into Limp Mode or fail to start if the truck is out of fluid.

The exhaust system is designed to use DEF as necessary, and the amount used will vary with the type of driving and load on the engine. We use quite a bit more DEF when pulling the Redwood than when empty.

Some newer model trucks have a DEF gauge on the dash. Our 2016 does not have the gauge but gives a message in the information center that says “Exhaust Fluid Range 500 miles”. It then counts down on the mileage every time the truck is started until the DEF is refilled.

My suggestion is to refill DEF at a time other than when refueling. It is very possible to get distracted and accidentally put DEF in the fuel tank, and DEF and diesel do not mix. DEF in the fuel tank may cause significant damage to the fuel system and engine.

Messages from the truck such as “Cleaning Exhaust Filter” or “Exhaust Filter Full” have nothing to do with DEF levels. The truck is showing that the exhaust filter is full of soot and either the process is starting to clean the filter or the filter is full (clogged) and you need to drive the truck so it can complete the process of cleaning the filter.

One last point. If by chance you put gasoline or DEF in your diesel fuel tank and realize the mistake before starting, then DO NOT START THE ENGINE and avoid turning the key to “On” which will pressurize the fuel system. Have the truck towed to a dealership for draining and cleaning the fuel system. Caught in time this mistake is not too costly, but if you drive the truck, it will eventually stop running and your repair will be expensive.

Re-gen. SCR uses a process to clean the filter called “regeneration” or “re-gen”. It notifies the driver with a message like, “Cleaning Exhaust Filter” when the filter is full and the cleaning process has started. You’ll notice a slight decrease in performance and a big decrease in fuel mileage for about 10 minutes.

Sometimes driving habits prevent a re-gen from finishing, for example frequent short trips where the engine doesn’t reach operating temperature. If a re-gen is not allowed to complete the cleaning, the exhaust filter remains full of soot. Eventually, you’ll get a message like, “Exhaust Filter Full - Drive Truck to Clean”. If the cleaning process continues to be interrupted the truck will eventually provide a warning message like, “In 99 Miles, Speed Limited to 50 mph”. The truck is begging to be driven at operating temperature so the SCR can complete its process. Eventually, if the warning message goes unheeded, the truck will go into Limp Mode where it will be speed restricted and will not restart, and you’ll be calling a tow truck.

The choice should center around the weight you’re pulling. Look at the chart below and compare the difference between a 2019 Single Rear Wheel (SRW) and a Dual Rear Wheel (DRW) truck, and it’s easy to see the extra towing and payload capacity you gain with a DRW truck.

The main complaint I’ve heard about a DRW is the size of the truck, and how people don’t really want to drive that large of a vehicle when they’re not towing.

We’ve got a DRW, and I’ve learned to not go through drive-thrus and to park a little farther out and avoid the tight parking spaces. I figure walking is good for me, so I learned to adjust. It’s our only vehicle - we do all our sightseeing using the dually - and we’re really glad we have it.

The question has been asked hundreds of times on RV forums: “Can my truck pull a xxxx xxxx?” Of course it can pull it. Can it do it legally, safely and within weight specs? That’s another story.

You should have a good idea of the fifth wheel you want to use for full-timing before looking for a truck. Dealers are interested in selling trucks - not getting you the vehicle that will really do the job.

Here are the Towing Guides for each truck as a point of reference, and towing guides are released with each new model year. All the manufacturers provide approved weight specifications for their trucks based on model, wheelbase, single or dual rear wheels, and axle ratio.

Chevrolet

GMC

Ford

Ram

The best towing experience is when the truck and trailer are as level as possible. Most 1-ton trucks will sag about 2” when hooked to a fifth wheel. That sag will cause two things: the rear suspension will bottom out quicker when traversing bumps, bridge joints, or rough roads; and the headlights will be pointing directly into oncoming traffic, blinding other drivers.

There are a few options to level the truck. Firestone Ride-Rite and Hellwig Air Lift are two reputable air bag brand names that are very popular as an after-market product. These kits can also be purchased with an on-board air compressor so the level can be adjusted while traveling. Ram offers an auto-level airbag system as an option.

Another method of leveling is with rubber blocks that compress under load offered through Timbren. Called the Timbren Suspension Enhancement System, this is quite popular and those who use them seem to be satisfied.

The Single Link Between You and Your Home

All fifth wheel hitches are designed to provide the safety, structure, stability, and ease of operation between your truck and your trailer. Their individual methods of accomplishing the task can vary, but the end result is the same: connecting your truck to your trailer as seamlessly as possible.

B&W, Curt, Anderson, Pull-Rite and Reese are just some of the names you’ll find when looking for a fifth wheel hitch. The name is not as important as the weight rating. Make sure that your hitch supports the weight you are pulling.

In recent years, the truck manufacturers have gone to a “puck” type installation system for a hitch in the bed. These are four holes in the bed that allow posts on the hitch to attach directly to the truck frame with handles attached to the hitch that lock the pucks in place.

The puck system has really improved the ease of installing and removing the hitch from the truck. New trucks with a “fifth wheel package” will have the puck system, a trailer brake controller and an electrical connection already installed in the bed of the truck.

If your truck does not have the puck-style system, a different base is used that has rails which attach to the bed and the frame of the truck, and the hitch is mounted on top of the rails.

A "slider” hitch is recommended for short bed trucks. The hitch is mounted on slide rails that lock into place, but can be released to slide the hitch to the rear for backing in tight spots. This moves the pivot point further to the rear of the truck so the trailer has more unobstructed maneuvering room. Without the slider, there is a much greater chance of the front of the trailer striking the cab of the truck in a tight turn.

There are a few hitches that have an airbag or cushioning system to provide a smoother ride for the trailer and for passengers in the truck. Comfort-Ride or the Hensley Mfg. TrailerSaver are a couple of systems worth looking at and comparing.

Finally, the B&W Companion hitch gives the option of a “turnover ball” where it will convert to gooseneck hitch. Most horse trailers and cargo flatbed trailers use a gooseneck style hitch, so this provides adaptability for towing.

Which one is BEST?

If you’re just starting out and unfamiliar with a fifth wheel hitch, it can take a lot research to figure out terminology and which hitch is best. I’ve found that consumer feedback on a hitch is not very helpful as it is tied to personal experience.

Hardly anyone has the opportunity to compare one hitch against another. You get a truck, you buy a hitch that ends up working well and is easy to use (or it’s the hitch that came with the truck), but how do you know if there is something better out there.

For example: I installed the Curt Q20 hitch on the puck base in our F-350. If I were to write a review on this hitch, it would be 5-stars. Why? Because it was simple to install; it latches to the pin every time; it unlatches from the pin every time; it has a safety latch that can’t be fastened if the pin is not fully latched; and it pulls our Redwood just fine. I have no idea if it is worth a 5-star rating, because it’s the only hitch I’ve ever had!

Which One is Best For You?

How do you find the hitch that’s right for you? Start with a hitch that is 5,000-10,000 lbs over the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of your fifth wheel. Our Montana had a GVWR of 14,500 lbs. so a 20,000 lb. hitch was more than enough, and it was also adequate for our Redwood at 16,500 lbs.

Learn the terms, do your due diligence in research - see what the hitch manufacturers say about their product; read the reviews with a grain of salt, decide the price point your willing to spend, and take your chances. In all likelihood, you’ll make a great decision.

With my F-250 short bed truck, I went to a trailer store and asked them to install a slider hitch, without even considering a brand. They installed a Curt Q20 and even though I later traded the truck for an F-350, I stayed with the Q20, purchased the puck base and sold the slider base, and installed it in my new long-bed truck.

I’ve had no reason to change - but if I were looking to improve the overall ride, I would probably most consider the Trail Saver or Comfort Ride hitch.

One thing you’ll want to consider is the height adjustment options for the hitch. The hitch should have some means of adjustment to raise or lower the connecting point. The hitch height will affect the clearance between the sides of your truck bed and the nose cap of the fifth wheel, and also affects how level the trailer will ride. Usually 6” to 8” clearance will prevent the trailer from contacting the truck bed in a severe angles, such as a deep dip or uneven campground.

Hitching and Un-hitching

All hitches have their uniqueness but operate in a similar way. Generally, the jaws are open to receive the pin of the trailer. When the truck is backed into the pin, the jaws latch and some kind of safety device provides a positive lock to ensure the jaws are closed.

To unhitch the fifth wheel, extend the front landing gear just enough to take the weight off the truck/hitch, unhook the latch and disconnect the trailer wiring and safety cable, and pull the truck forward.

Here is the checklist I use for hitching up:

• Lower the tailgate

• Slowly back the truck to the rig, lining up the pin with the hitch

• Adjust the trailer height so it is barely resting on the hitch

• Continue backing until the positive latch on the hitch is seen and heard

• Flip the safety latch (it will not close if the jaws are not locked), attach the safety cable, and plug in the electrical cord to the truck

• Raise the tailgate

And unhitching:

• Lower the tailgate

• Lower the landing gear until most of the weight of the trailer is taken off the hitch

• Unhook the electrical plug from the truck, remove the safety cable, and unlatch the safety latch from the handle

• Pull the handle to release the jaws. Sometimes this requires putting the truck in neutral to release any pressure that is on the jaws. The weight of the trailer should be supported by the landing gear, not the hitch at this point

• Pull the truck completely forward out from under the nose of the fifth wheel

• Raise the tailgate

A common, costly error among fifth wheel owners is failure to ensure the hitch is latched before retracting the landing gear and pulling away. The trailer can drop off the hitch and onto the bed, causing some expensive damage. Develop good habits or checklists for hitching and unhitching and don’t allow distraction to interrupt the process, and you shouldn’t have this problem.

Next: Weight

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